2018 Ford Mustang Ecoboost Fastback Sports Car Model Details 2018 Ford Mustang Ecoboost
2018 Ford Mustang Ecoboost Fastback Sports Car Model Details 2018 Ford Mustang Ecoboost

2018 Ford Mustang Ecoboost Colors, Release Date, Redesign, Price

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Hey, guys, Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today we’re taking a look at and installing
the Roush Cold Air Intake fitting all 2018 EcoBoost Mustangs. Now, if you’re the owner of one of these four
bangers, you know that the paper element filter that they come with is not really great for
optimizing your airflow into the engine bay. If you’re looking to get the best amount of
airflow possible to your turbo, the Roush Cold Air Intake definitely does the job. As you can see, the Roush option has a very
uniquely shaped airbox with a cutout here and a plastic cover. That way you can see directly into the filter
and monitor its condition. You can look directly in and be able to tell
if it’s dirty, if it needs some cleaning without actually removing it, the tubing itself, as
well as the heat shield, are both roto-molded, which gives you a very clean airflow, very
unrestricted airflow coming in through the air inlet, which this does retain all the
way back here in turbo.

This is gonna help increase horsepower and
torque, although it does not require a tune. That would definitely maximize your gains
here. If you’re looking to get the absolute most
out of these bolt-ons like a cold air intake, tuning your EcoBoost, we all know, can give
you serious power gains. Now, in addition to that, you get a better
performing engine, a better throttle response. You might even hear a little bit more of a
turbo whistle coming out of that thing as well. And you can pick yours up for just about 400
bucks on the site here. The installation gets one-out-of-three wrenches
on our difficulty meter, very simple hand tools you can tackle this one within the driveway
at home. You need a ratchet, a simple socket set, a
couple of extensions, a T30 Torx bit. And I would definitely have a panel removal
tool and some needle-nose pliers on deck as well. I did this one myself in just a little under
an hour. So you can probably do that as well. And I’m gonna show you how that gets done.

So let’s get to it. All right, guys, first things first. We have to disconnect the negative cable on
our battery just to keep things safe. What you’re gonna do is remove your battery
cover from your engine bay. Set that aside, 10-millimeter socket loosen
up the bolt. Remove your negative cable on the battery. First step in uninstalling our factory airbox
is to use a seven-millimeter socket to loosen up band clamp holding on the factory airbox
here. We’re gonna disconnect our sensor, pop off
a couple of clips on the airbox itself, and pull it off. Next step to remove our factory air filter
is to grab your ratchet, small extension, and your 10-millimeter socket and remove the
bolt holding into the firewall. All right. There’s a couple of hoses we have to disconnect
from the factory tubing leading back to the turbo. Now, I’m gonna use needle-nose pliers to disconnect
some of the hose clamps. I can do some by hand with my thumb, which
I’ll show you in just a second. And then for the last clamp holding it to
the turbo, you’re gonna wanna have a decent extension, possibly a swivel socket to make
your life easier and then a seven-millimeter socket for your last clamp. So what we’re gonna do now, disconnect those
noses with the needle-nose, and we’ll work from there. All right. So we’re gonna use our needle-nose to disconnect
the hose clamp on our air bypass valve hose. Go ahead and pinch that. If you are physically able, which I apparently
am not. So here is this gray plastic PCV hose connect
that you’re gonna remove. You can pinch this back with your needle-nose
pliers or you can reach your finger in there, a little hot. Push up on the connect and disconnect it from
the hose. All right. We’ve got our extension on our ratchet or
seven mil at the end of the universal swivel joint. I’m gonna go ahead and loosen up the clamp
at our turbo. Rotate our clamp here and we’ll be able to
disconnect our hose from the turbo. I can remove your factory hose from the engine
bay. So we finally got our factory airbox off of
our 2018 EcoBoost and on the table here sitting next to our Roush Cold Air Intake. You can see right off the bat several differences
in the two different kits here, the biggest difference, of course, coming in with the
air filter. Here is our Roush Cold Air Intake dry filter
that we have versus the paper element filter from Ford. Now, Ford typically does a really good job
with this setup of their cold air intakes nowadays. You know, it’s 2018. The new gens are pretty advanced with their
technology, but they really dropped the ball on their air filters. This paper element filter doesn’t do nearly
as good of a job as our new cotton gauze filter from Roush. And this is reusable, washable. So you don’t have to pick up a new one every
couple thousand miles when it comes time for routine maintenance. It is worth noting that this is a dry filter,
which basically means you don’t have to reoil it every time you pull it out to wash it. Now, this one also has a very custom and unique
shaped airbox. Now, Roush custom-designed this, not only
to be a perfect fit to your 2018 EcoBoost, but it also gives you quick access to see
the condition of your filter. So you can take a look at it under the hood
without pulling it out to see its condition. Now, aside from the filter itself and the
airbox, you’re also getting a difference in the tubing.

The roto-molded plastic on both the tubing
and the airbox allow for a better airflow. There’s unrestricted tubing here as opposed
to the factory one with a lot of kinks and stoppages. It’s got the same factory tubing here as your
stock airbox tubing would have. So you can have your air bypass valve clip
in as well as the PCB fitting without making any drilling modifications like some of the
other brands would have you do. The airbox over here is definitely gonna be
an upgrade. As I mentioned before, this not only has that
unique shape, but it also gives you a better filtration to keep that engine bay heat out
or pulling in the cold air. As you can see, the Roush one does also have
an air inlet tube, which is a really good design from the factory that you want transferred
over to a cold air intake that you’re purchasing just like the Roush one has here. So that is a pretty big bonus in my personal
opinion. Now, that’s gonna wrap up all the differences
here and similarities between the two. So what do you say we get this installed? Now, before we get our new Roush Cold Air
Intake installed, there’s a couple of things we have to transfer over from the stock airbox
to our new Roush one. That’s gonna be this rubber grommet here,
our steel spacer, and a couple more grommets here that we’re gonna transfer over to the
new one. And then we’ll be using our new clamps provided
by Roush. We’ll assemble all that together and get it
installed on our Mustang. All right. So we’re gonna start here with this rubber
grommet. I’m just gonna go ahead and twist and pull
until this removes from your factory one. It’ll come off in one piece. We’re gonna transfer over to the Roush airbox
here, just like our factory one. All right. Next up, we got this steel spacer. Now, you wanna pull that spacer out of place
first, and you’ll be able to pinch and remove this grommet through one side. Now, we’re gonna go ahead and transfer that
right over to our new one. I’m gonna put the flat side in first. Kind of twist it and move it around in there. Then we’re gonna grab our steel spacer, slip
that into place. All right. So we’re gonna flip our factory airbox upside
down, and there’s one more rubber grommet here. That one we could twist out of place. It’s kind of got that arrowhead. We’re gonna transfer this one over to the
upside-down portion of our Roush airbox. That’s gonna slip into place here. Now, this one might be a little bit tricky. It’s got an oblong shape here. Snap that into place. There’s one last thing we have to transfer
over from our factory airbox to our new Roush one, and that’s gonna be this sensor. Now, it’s gonna go from our factory airbox
lid to our new Roush intake tube. So what we’re gonna do is grab this lid here. We’re gonna twist that sensor out of place
and twist it right back in to our filter tube here. So I’m gonna use a pair of needle-nose pliers. It’s a little arrow directing you where to
twist underneath of that sensor there. So what I’m gonna do. Grab this. Now rotate that just a little bit to loosen
it up. And if you need help, you can always look
directly in here and line up the shapes to make sure that you’re pulling it out properly. All right. So we’re gonna rotate this. All right. Now we can take our new air filter tube. Now you can see the two shapes here. You wanna make sure you’re lining the big
one up with the bigger hole in the new sensor and inlet. Push that into place. Rotate that all the way to lock it. All right. Before we can install our new airbox from
Roush, we have to remove some slack on the factory sensor harness. Now, as you can see, this only reaches so
far. We’re gonna need this to come out to a little
bit farther to about here. In order to do that, you’re gonna remove this
plastic clip which is held on this bracket. You just simply pull that out. There’s two more here. There’s one gonna be on this sensor clip and
there’s one down here on your firewall. So I’m gonna use a panel removal tool to help
me with this. You can just use some good old-fashioned elbow
grease to pull it out, but they can be a little bit tricky. I’m gonna slide this panel tool in here and
pry up. That’ll pop that out of place. Do the same thing on this sensor. But those out of place and now this last one. With all the clips out of place, that’ll bring
our harness all the way over to where our center is gonna mount. So we’re gonna move our harness out of the
way here for now. We’re gonna drag it over to the front bumper. We’re gonna put our entire air inlet assembly
with the airbox into place. We’re just gonna slide it in try to match
up the holes, and this is where the mounting screw is gonna mount. So we’re gonna go ahead and slide this in. The factory 10-millimeter bolt we’ve removed
in the beginning is gonna go back into place. Grab my extension and 10-millimeter socket,
we’ll tighten that down. All right. Next up, we’re gonna install our filter tube
to our filter itself. You wanna make sure you have that clamp around
the filter before you start. I’m gonna go ahead and put the tube with the
sensor in place. Grab your eight-millimeter socket. Tighten this down. And then once you put it into place, I’ll
use my ratchet to get it tighten down all the way. Then take the whole assembly. Feed it into place into the airbox. All right. Now, as you can see, there’s gonna be two
pre-drilled holes that will line up with some threaded holes in our airbox. We’re gonna use the hardware provided in the
kit to tighten this down. All right. You got the two threaded holes here. Then grab your 10-millimeter bolts provided
by Roush and your socket. You might need an extension for this one. Go ahead and tighten these down. Now that we have that in place, we can take
our sensor. Plug it in here to the filter tube. Now, if you remember those plastic clips that
we removed earlier, now we have this all tucked in next to our airbox. Now, there’s a bunch of pre-drilled holes
here that you can just take this plastic clip and snap it in from the bottom to get that
to secure in place. Next up, we’re taking our intake tube here. We’ve got our coupler. Now, we’re gonna put the coupler on the end
here. That’s gonna connect to our turbo. Now, as you can see, there are two different
sized ends. The bigger size is gonna go over the tubing
itself. I have to flight that on there with some elbow
grease. The smaller end is gonna connect directly
to the turbo. Now, you’re given two clamps from the kit
here. One’s gonna be smaller. One’s a larger. Obviously, your larger one, you’re gonna feed
over, and that’s gonna hold it to the tubing. The smaller one is gonna hold it to the turbo. Now, when you’re positioning these clamps,
you wanna make sure you’re positioning them that once it’s installed in the engine, you
have this rotated so it’s easily accessible from up top here. If you have that clamp facing downward, it’s
gonna be hard to get to once you get into the engine bay. What we’re gonna do is rotate this upward
a little bit and tighten this first larger one down while it’s outside of the car. Once we install this, we’re gonna leave this
slightly loose connected to our turbo and then tighten the second one down. This is how the tubing is gonna lay in the
vehicle. That’s gonna be down pretty far in the engine
bay. So we wanna make sure that we’re facing this
upward. So we’re gonna do it about there. I’m gonna tighten this down just enough so
that it hugs the coupler, but it isn’t too tight that we can’t slide it over the turbo. All right. You wanna just feed this right around here. Make sure that this is gonna connect to your
filter tube. It might take a little twisting to get on
there. There we go. Rotate that clamp, and we can tighten it down
from up here. But first, we’re gonna connect our turbo side. There’s only a couple more steps we have to
finish up to get this install complete. Now that we have our tube connected to our
turbo, we had that clamp tighten down. All we have to do is tighten down this clamp
connected to our filter tube. We’re gonna use our needle-nose pliers to
connect the air bypass valve tube as well as the PCV fitting to our new Roush tube and
then we’ll throw on the top of our airbox. Let’s get to it. There’s two more hoses we have to connect
to our tubing here. One’s gonna be that PCV hose in the back there
that we connect it with our thumb. And the front one here is the one that we
used our needle-nose pliers to remove in the beginning of the site. I’m gonna start in the back with the PCV hose. Now, you can see, you can pull it from up
here. Guide it with your finger and just press down. You’ll hear that snap into place. Now, for this one, we can set it over top
of the location. We’re gonna use our needle-nose pliers to
pinch our hose clamp here and guide it back down. All right. Once you have your hose clamp in place, we’re
gonna move on to the airbox cover. Last step in the process is the lid for our
heat shield. Now, it comes with self-tapping screws that
we’re gonna put in place here. What you’re gonna need to do slide this into
place underneath. That’s gonna go underneath this extended firewall
and underneath your bracket here that we touched on earlier. Just gonna work your way down and it’ll seat
itself. Now you’ll see that there are those pre-drilled
holes in the heat shield itself. These self-tapping truss are gonna go down. I wanna get these installed in place. All right. To get these installed, you’ll need a T30
Torx bit on your end of the ratchet. You’re gonna go ahead and place these all
along the edges of our heat shield cover. All right. Good to go. That’s gonna wrap this one up for the Roush
Cold Air Intake. Now, if you’re the owner of a 2018 EcoBoost
and you’re looking to ditch the factory air intake and that paper element filter, you
might wanna pick up the Roush one here that gives you a bump in horsepower and torque,
better throttle response, better airflow to the engine and overall, a better design that
even looks cool under the hood here. That clear cover on the top here lets you
monitor that dry filter, lets you know when it’s time to clean it and when it’s not without
even taking it off. So if you like the look of this and you wanna
get one for your EcoBoost, pick one up right here at americanmuscle.com.

Gallery of 2018 Ford Mustang Ecoboost Colors, Release Date, Redesign, Price